Bunnies!

Here are some adorable pictures of baby bunnies i came across!!!!

Hes so fluffy i' gonna die.

Just so cute!!!!

Beginning Horse Training Tips

When starting to train a horse for the first time, it helps to have an understanding of how horses think and react in the wild.
	Horses are naturally herd animals. One stallion generally is the head a herd of mares, but the “lead mare” determines the direction the herd goes.Horses naturally fear other animals and people, too. When you approach a horse, it does not have any way to know what your intent is. It watches your actions and body language to decide its response—flee, or stand and wait.
This can help you understand why training needs to be a gradual process of getting your horse’s attention and then teaching it what to do. Your horse, ideally, should see you as its lead mare, regardless of the gender of its owner. If your horse is a natural leader, however, you will often find training to be quite a challenge! Instinctually, horses want a leader to show them how things are and what to do. This is part of being a herd animal. Naturally, we want you, the human, to be the leader. A horse will recognize you as the leader either from fear or respect. Your interactions and relationship with your horse will be more satisfying for both of you if you lead by earning your horse’s trust and respect. Usually, a horse will not begin formal training until it is around two years old. However, foals are able to learn how to behave around people from a very early age. It is important to spend as much time as you can with your young horse so it will become used to being around you, and by extension, other people. Once your horse is old enough to start training, you must use ground work before ever attempting to ride. Longeing, or ground training with a long rope, is the first step. The longe line attaches to the horse’s halter and allows it a large circle of movement while you teach it commands. Another absolutely necessary thing to teach your horse is how to walk beside you on a lead. Lead training, which also includes teaching it to turn and stop at your command, is vital and you will use it almost daily with your horse. Many horses will ‘test’ you during lead training by attempting to shoulder you out of his space. Don’t let him get away with it! If he can resist this very simple training, future training will be that much more difficult. Horses are trained so they will accept being ridden, and follow the signals of their riders. Your horse needs to respond when you ask it to do something because it is well trained. This prevents the need for whips or crops to punish or encourage the horse to do what you want. There is no hard and fast rule about how much time a training session should take. The first part of the training session is used to warm up the horse, both mentally and physically. This time allows it to loosen its joints and warm its muscles. Longeing is a typical method of warming up. Next, you should practice those things the horse already knows before introducing something new. Any new skill should be just a tiny alteration on something the horse already knows. Building on previously attained skills is the key to successful training. If you add a new piece of equipment, take it back off after just a few minutes. Repeat this for a few days, allowing your horse to get used to it. Then let the horse wear it during longeing. Once he is accustomed to wearing a saddle, have someone sit on him briefly as he stands still. Work up to longeing with a rider. Add new things just a small amount at a time. Another example of something to add gradually is a bit. A young horse must learn to accept a bit as something normal and natural to have in its mouth, and this won’t happen overnight. The horse must learn how to swallow saliva with a foreign object in its mouth. To facilitate this, a trainer will slowly introduce a mouthing bit, for just a few minutes at first and slowly building, until the horse no longer objects to it. The saddle should likewise be introduced slowly. The stirrups and leathers should be removed initially. Allow your horse to see the saddle, then just hold it over him, not touching him, until he loses his fear of it. The first time you place the saddle on your horse, be ready to do a lot of reassurance and stroking. Next time, introduce the girth, then the leathers and stirrups. Add each new thing when your horse has lost his fear of the last new thing. Lastly, all training sessions must end with a cool down period. This allows the horse to mentally and physically wind down and relax. Ideally, the cool-down period should begin when the training has been going well, and before your horse becomes frustrated or tired. You want your horse to remember pleasant things about training and ending positively facilitates this. Let your horse play for a bit, and then return him to the stable or pasture. Finally, remember that your horse will take its cue from you. If you are calm and unafraid, so will your horse feel. If you move, your horse interprets this as a change of direction from its lead mare and will move, too. Once your horse understands your body language, he will naturally follow your lead.

Tips on how to take care of rabbits

Every rabbit owner should know that the safest place for a rabbit to live is indoors. Rabbits should never be kept outdoors! Domestic rabbits are different from their wild relatives—they do not tolerate extreme temperatures well, especially in the hot summer months. Even in a safe enclosure, rabbits are at risk from predators. Merely the sight or sound of a nearby wild animal can cause rabbits so much stress that they can suffer a heart attack and literally die of fear.
Whether you decide to let your rabbit roam free in your entire home or just a limited area, it is important that you make everything rabbit-safe. One little bunny can easily find a whole lot of trouble in an average home. Because rabbits like to chew, make sure that all electrical cords are out of reach and outlets are covered. Chewing through a plugged-in cord can result in severe injury or even death. Their chewing can also result in poisoning if the wrong objects are left in the open or in unlocked low cabinets. Aside from obvious toxins like insecticides, rodenticides, and cleaning supplies, be aware that common plants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, and assorted plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.
If kept in a cage, rabbits need a lot of room to easily move around. A rabbit’s cage should be a minimum of five times the size of the rabbit. Your rabbit should be able to completely stretch out in his cage and stand up on his hind legs without bumping his head on the top of the cage. Additionally, cages with wire flooring are hard on rabbits’ feet, which do not have protective pads like those of dogs and cats. If you place your rabbit in a wire cage, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard or other material. Place a cardboard box or “rabbit condo” in the cage so the bunny has a comfortable place to hide, and respect your animal’s need for quiet time (rabbits usually sleep during the day and night, becoming playful at dawn and dusk).
When rabbits are kept in a cage, they need to be let out for several hours each day for exercise. Aside from running and jumping, rabbits also enjoy exploring their surroundings. This is an ideal time to play and interact with your rabbit. Make sure that he has a safe area to play and explore.
Just like cats, rabbits can easily learn to use a litter box. Place a litter box in the cage to encourage this behavior. If your rabbit roams freely through multiple rooms of your home, it’s a good idea to have litter boxes in several places. Many rabbits enjoy spending time relaxing in their litter box, so make sure that it is of ample size. For bedding (litter), stay away from cedar or other wood shavings, which may cause liver damage or trigger allergic reactions in rabbits. Also avoid clumping or dusty kitty litters, which can cause serious health problems if eaten. Instead, stick with organic litters made of paper, wood pulp, or citrus. Newspaper can work too, but may not be as absorbent. Be sure to put fresh hay in the litter box daily, as many rabbits like to have a snack while sitting in their litter box.
Rabbits have complex digestive systems, so it’s very important that they receive a proper diet. Many health problems in rabbits are caused by foods that are incompatible with their digestive physiology. A basic rabbit diet should consist of the following foods:
Hay
Rabbits need hay—specifically, Timothy grass hay. Rabbits should have access to a constant supply of this hay, which aids their digestive systems and provides the necessary fiber to help prevent health problems such as hair balls, diarrhea, and obesity. Alfalfa hay, on the other hand, should only be given to adult rabbits in very limited quantities, if at all, because it’s high in protein, calcium, and calories.
Vegetables
In addition to hay, the basic diet of an adult rabbit should consist of leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, arugula, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, and others. Variety is important, so feed your rabbit three different vegetables at a time. When introducing new veggies to a rabbit’s diet, try just one at a time and keep quantities limited.
Fruits and Treats
While hay and vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet, rabbits also enjoy treats. Cartoons and other fictional portrayals of rabbits would lead us to believe that carrots are the basis of a healthy rabbit diet. Many rabbits enjoy carrots, but they are a starchy vegetable and should only be given sparingly as a treat. Other treats your rabbit might enjoy are apples (without stems or seeds), blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums, or melon. Extra-sugary fruits like bananas, grapes, and raisins are good too, but should be given on a more limited basis.
Foods to Avoid
With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don’t feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything moldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit’s veterinarian.
Pellets
If you choose to make pellets a part of your rabbit’s diet, it is best to use them as a supplement to the dark green, leafy vegetables, not as a substitute. These pellets should only be given in small quantities (1/8 -1/4 cup per five pounds of body weight per day, spread out over two daily feedings). Also, make sure to purchase Timothy-based pellets. Many brands of rabbit feed contain seeds, corn, and other foods that are too high in calories to be the basis for a healthy rabbit’s diet.
 Rabbits should always have an ample supply of fresh water available. Be sure to change your rabbit’s water at least once each day. Water can be kept in a sipper bottle or bowl. If you use a sipper bottle, watch new rabbits to make sure they know how to use the bottles, and clean bottles daily so the tubes don’t get clogged. If you use a bowl, make sure that the bowl is heavy enough to avoid tipping and spilling.

Rabbits are fragile animals who must be handled carefully. Their bones are so delicate that the muscles in their powerful hind legs can easily overcome the strength of their skeletons. As a result, if not properly restrained, struggling rabbits can break their own spines.
To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his back side, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit’s body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.
Don’t forget that rabbits are prey animals and many will not enjoy being picked up. Be sure to go slowly with your rabbit and practice. Let your rabbit get accustomed to being handled.
Rabbits groom each other around the eyes, ears, top of the nose, top of the head, and down the back, so they’ll enjoy it if you pet them on their heads. Like any animal, each rabbit will have an individual preference about where he likes to be touched. Rabbits lack the ability to vomit or cough up hairballs like cats, so try to remove loose fur when you have the opportunity to do so. Simply petting or brushing your rabbit for a few minutes each day should remove most of the excess fur. Some rabbit breeds, such as angoras, have extra grooming needs because of their distinctive coats.
 ust like cats and dogs, rabbits need to receive proper medical care, including annual check-ups. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat rabbits is much smaller. It is extremely important that any veterinarian treating a rabbit has experience with rabbits. Many veterinarians who treat rabbits will be called “exotics” veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, rabbit-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat rabbits.
 Rabbits are social animals and most will be much happier as a part of a pair or trio than on their own. If you don’t have a rabbit yet, consider adopting a bonded pair instead of a single rabbit. Most animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups have pairs available for adoption. If you already have a rabbit, you should consider adding another one to the family. Local rabbit groups can usually find a good match for your rabbit and help with the introduction and bonding process.
When thinking about adding a rabbit to your family, please remember that rabbits are not toys and they are typically not appropriate pets for children. Rabbits are complex creatures—socially, psychologically, and physiologically. They require a great deal of special care and supervision. If you make the decision to add rabbits to your family, please don’t buy from a pet store; instead, adopt from your local animal shelter or rabbit adoption group.


~Joanna~

Pretty horses

I love gypsy vanner horses here are some very pretty pictures i came across.

Bunnies

Being nocturnal, the female bunnies nurse their litters at night or in the early morning hours. As long as the litter remains together, all get fed. But as the youngsters become older and begin to leave the nest, the doe will nurse only those she chooses-either those out of the nest of those remaining in the nest. The young begin to leave the nest when 14 or 15 days old. The condition of the young is a good index of the mother's milk capacity. If the young begin leaving the nest sooner than this, they may not be getting sufficient milk from the mother or the temperature within the nest may be too warm. By eight weeks of age, the young are eating well on their own and removed from the doe's cage. Removing the young at this time gives the doe a short rest between litters. If she was rebred when the litter was six weeks of age, she will be pregnant and ready for a rest between litters. When maintaining a tight breeding schedule, such as in commercial operations where does produce seven or eight litter per year, the doe is bred when the young are 14 days old; the litter is removed from the doe's cage at six weeks of age. The young rabbits are weighed, and the rapid growers are saved for future breeders, while the slower, underweight individuals are culled. The ideal is to produce litters in which all of the young are close in weight gain. By the time rabbits are three months old, they should be caged separately to prevent fighting and premature breeding. It is never advisable to keep young that are slow developers for future breeders, or from does that proved to dirty housekeepers, poor milkers, or of poor temperament. These traits will only carry on through the line in some degree. 


~Joanna~

Feeding horse

Here is some information about taking care of horses
Feeding horses to enable them to perform at their best, and to maintain condition regardless of the environment, requires a careful balance of the right foods, The horse is a herbivore and as such is never happier than when eating grass, which should be its main source of food whenever possible.
Correct feeding generally requires the advice of an experienced professional. However, there are certain rules relative to feeding, which every caring horse person should know. Observation of these will help to minimize any problems. it is important not to overfeed your horse or pony. Apart from becoming to fat, the animal may become over-fresh and rank, and start to suffer from health problems because of the nutritional imbalance. Obesity is a prime cause is laminitis, a disease of the foot that causes intense pain. Observe your horse and note whether it is putting on or losing weight, and act to keep it healthy for the type of work it is doing. Remember that while the weight of the horse is the basic determining factor in the quantities of feed required, breeding, temperament, condition, and type of work are important considerations as well. Horses have very mall stomachs. In the wild they would have spent around 18 hours a day picking and grazing at will, which enabled the food to "trickle" through the gut. If the stomach is overloaded, the food is pushed through too fast to be digested properly, and this can lead to health problems, such as colic (stomach ache), swollen legs, and skin rashes. Being a herbivore, the horse's most natural feed is grass. If the horse is not out to pasture, it should be fed hay. The more roughage the horse has the happier it will be. It is this fiber that stimulates the gut work efficiently. Grass contains not only roughage but also essential moisture (70-80 percent water). Turn your horse out daily if you can. If you can't feed succulents such as carrots to make up for it. If your horse cannot be kept out to pasture you will need to work out how much feed it will need, such as hay and concentrates (which are pure oats, barley, or maize).

~Joanna~

Hello

Hello and welcome to my blog
I am really excited to start blogging! Here are a few things about me
I love to bake, go horseback riding, Rollerblade, ice skateing, playing the piano, playing with babies,
swimming, singing, reading books, reading my bible, jumping on the trampoline and playing bored games.
Thanks for stopping by.

~Joanna~